Saffron Lobster Risotto

Though lobster is often best enjoyed simply steamed with butter, there is something sumptuous about a creamy lobster risotto. That's because Arborio rice is cooked to perfection in flavorful broth, white wine, silky butter and aromatic fresh parsley only enhance the flavor of the succulent lobster meat.

There are three Italian varieties of rice that are generally considered to be best suited for risotto. Their plump, short- to medium-sized grains release just the right amount of starch as they are cooked and retain some firmness in the center. 

{Arborio rice} Is the most commonly used and widely available rice for making a very creamy risotto. You shouldn't overcook any kind of rice, but Arborio has a tendency to be less forgiving than the others and can get a little sticky. 

{Carnaroli Rice} Is often more expensive and considered by many to produce a better risotto. Like Arborio, it is creamy and rich, but it holds its shape better than Arborio, making it easier to avoid a gummy, overcooked texture.

{Vialone Nano} The stubbiest grain of the three, is favored in the Veneto region of Italy. It cooks up relatively quickly into a creamy risotto with a firm center. This is the hardest to find of the three.

Here's the thing about entertaining with risotto. If you have a kitchen that's out in the open or big enough where people can gather with you as you stir and add broth, it's actually a fine dish to serve to dinner guests. There's only one way you can really mess this up, and that's by starting to add the broth too soon and then finishing the dish before the guests even arrive.

{Ingredients}

• 2 Onions
• 1 Stick Butter
• Kosher Salt and Pepper
• 1/4 cup Olive Oil
• 2 cups Carnaroli or Arborio rice
• 1/2 teaspoon Saffron, crumbled
• 1 Bay Leaf
• 2 Garlic Cloves
• 6 cups warm Lobster Broth or Seafood (you can sub chicken broth)
• 3 1/2 cups cooked lobster meat, roughly chopped (I used 4 tails.)
• a Parsley, chopped
• 2 teaspoons Thyme, chopped
• 2 Tbsp Chives, chopped
• Fresh lemon juice from a wedge or two
• Spicy lobster mayonnaise (recipe follows)

In a heavy-bottomed pot, saute the onions in the butter, adding a little salt, until they are translucent, 5 minutes or so. Increase the heat and add the olive oil, rice, saffron, bay leaf, garlic, and a little more salt. Stir until the rice is sizzling and aromatic. Add 2 cups broth and bring to a boil (from this point, it will take 15 or 20 minutes to cook the rice).

Set the fire to keep the liquid at a brisk simmer. This is critical. If the flame is too low, the rice will become soggy; if is too high, the liquid will simply evaporate instead of being absorbed by the rice. You'll need to keep adjusting the heat to keep the risotto simmering correctly. Stirring occasionally, allow the broth to reduce almost completely, until  little sinkholes appear on the surface. Add another cup of broth and repeat. Adjust the seasoning with each addition of liquid. Add a final cup of broth and repeat. A little more salt, or more broth, may be required. When the rice is done, it should be just al dente and a bit soupy.

Just before serving, add the cooked lobster meat and season it with salt and pepper. Sprinkle the herbs and lemon juice over the lobster, then gently mix with a wooden spoon—avoid smashing the rice. Add a little more warm broth, so the risotto is easily spoonable. Serve the risotto in a warmed shallow soup plate, and pass a bowl of the spicy lobster mayonnaise, so each person can add a small spoonful.

Spicy Lobster Mayonnaise via A Platter of Figs
Tanis practically shamed me into making this from scratch. His words: "I believe it's important to make your own mayonnaise. It is not hard to do, and no matter how many cookbooks or food magazines recommend mayonnaise from a a jar as a good substitute, I strongly, vehemently disagree.

Here's the thing, guys. It's not hard to do. Does it take extra time, and will your arm hurt from whisking? Yes. OK, here's how Tanis says to do it:

Whisk two egg yolks in a bowl. Slowly stir in olive oil, a spoonful at a time, until an emulsion forms. As the sauce thickens, continue whisking and adding oil in a slow, steady stream.

When the mayonnaise is quite thick (you'll have used about a cup of oil at this point), thin with a teaspoon of broth or water. Season with salt, pepper, and a good pinch of ground red pepper, such as hot paprika. (I used crushed chili flakes.) Whisk in another 1/2 cup olive oil. Thin again, and adjust the seasoning. Add a few drops of lemon juice or red wine vinegar, and a little more broth or water. The finished mayo should be the texture of softly whipped cream.